Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Section Two: Chapter 1 Plants Need the Same Nutrients for Their Health As You!



Managed Soil Nutrition

You are your own best plant nutrition expert. Who else has the same interest in your food nutrition?

Where to start?


The "University of Hawai‘i - College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources" just may have the best beginning place for us novices! It's quite "hands on" as a website can be.

Nutrient Management
http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/MauiSoil/manage.aspx


Let's head over to this page to see a chart comparing soil PH to nutrient availability to plant roots. . .

http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/MauiSoil/c_acidity.aspx

(Scroll down to the chart)

I know . . . Hawai'i just doesn't have your particular soil and weather! Well, no prob! All soils are basically similar, and when you have a great source of learning these basics, the rest comes along!

For our focus on the nutrients plants and people need for best health, but with CAUTION for its origin, here's a U.N. sponsored Wikipedia on nutrition for people. Just be very cautious in accepting every detail. The best use for tainted "facts" from synthetic "nutrient" sources is to know the natural nutrition first. With that said . . .

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nutrition

This is a nice overview for plant nutrient concept.
http://www.worldagroforestry.org/NurseryManuals/Community/Nutrients.pdf

Little Earth's oceans formed from massive under-surface waters bursting through heavy layers of the solid mantle and a torrential down pour of solar system frozen water meteorites in some long distant past raised former ocean surface about three miles. Deep sea exploration around Earth detail ancient beaches and river estuaries around the globe at some three miles under the surface today.

Fascinating as the oceans' geological history is, their nutrient content includes all elements this tiny planet has. This bit of information lies at the heart of our health, and all the plant and animal health around our home planet.

That said, with the fact that what we are is the soil what we eat was first in the soil, the oceans' full spectrum of nutrients makes for a natural resource readily available to us for harvesting all those nutrients we require for complete health and blocking disease and parasites that always attack unhealthy bodies.

Another key factor to sea water as a source of nutrients is that it has a close match of nutrient ratios to the healthy bodies of plants, animals, and ours. Harvesting and applying sea water-raised plants to our diet, garden soils, and to animal feeds, including our vermicompost operation, provides the best combination of nutrients available anywhere.

The informed gardener requires accurate details of nutrient elements. Here's a chart of sea water elements. . .

http://seamineralsfromarkansas.com/analysis



Bringing Together Sufficient Nutrients for Optimum Plant Health & Resistance to Pests


There are proven methods for assessing a given soil nutrient content, then adding proper ratios of lacking elements and reducing or balancing those nutrients which are too high proportionally. For some nutrients, such as calcium and magnesium, their ratio affects root uptake of the other. Uptake of both is directly influenced by PH level. Too alkaline soil PH inhibits root uptake for both.

This Wisconsin Extension Service lists known factors relative to calcium and magnesium uptake.

http://www.soils.wisc.edu/extension/pubs/A2986.pdf

That report was found with this search: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=effect+of+too+high+calcium+in+soil

In other reports about nutrient levels and ratios, University of Hawaii has a series of detailed soil nutrient facts and methodologies . . .

http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/MauiSoil/Default.aspx   Do read over this material and take notes. With a soil analysis for your specific soil(s) this data is especially applicable.

These specific studies and reports are fine so far as they go, and some nutrient levels and ratios have major impact on your plants' health and growth. However, there is a rule of thumb I find applicable to just about every soil I work with, and the plants growing in each one. This general nutrient factor is simply that soil produced with and from relatively healthy raw plant material has at least acceptable nutrient levels and ratios. It's the "Secret" ingredient to producing healthy plants right out of the fresh soil your labor produces.

But, just as I mentioned in the chapter for procuring raw plant material, from a given area, the plant material may well be deficient in particular nutrients. The only way to be sure, and make proper adjustment is a soil analysis. If discovering nutrient deficiency, be sure to study on the research about adding it sufficiently to your soil. Same goes for reducing too high levels: research before action!


When Specific Nutrient Facts Are Necessary . . .

Here's a search producing many soil research facts . . .

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=soil+nutrients+help+plant+health


This search focuses on nutrients relative to both plant and plant food consumer . . .

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Are+plant+nutrients+the+same+for+people

This search returns ideal soil information. It is general, since plant species and varieties have individual ideal soil nutrient content, levels and ratios.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=The+Ideal+Soil%2C



General Methods To Assure Adequate Nutrient Levels and Ratios For Soil Production

Remember the material for locating raw soil materials? With that information let's further define specific target soil nutrient content for a target plant we need soil for. The first place to get settled is the soil our target plant produces best in, if known. If not known, then find its original location on Earth, and record known factors of the soil(s) it originally grew in.

As a general rule, gathering raw material from plants grown in soil with that general analysis will produce suitable soil.

Another quite effective method is that of adding adequate amounts of salt water marine plant and creature products as these contain a full spectrum of nutrients in excellent proportion. 



Did You Know Commercial Fertilizer Mfgrs Effectively Blocked Natural Soil Nutrient Research?

Just as only a few bankers own and control the world's Big Pharmaceutical manufacturers, the same ones that produced lethal products to murder millions in Nazi Death Camps, so it is those same banker own and operate Big Agriculture. Maybe they will send their religious zealots with dull pocket knives to behead me if this book gets too popular. But, they cannot stop Truth exposing them and their murderous designs to depopulate Planet Earth. That cannot happen because they are not in charge of Life.

Period.


So, what is this natural soil nutrition that gets toxic soil fertilizer manufacturer's panties all twisted in knots? It's the natural content and balance between all 90+ nutrients on our planet that affect the health of all living creatures, that's all it is! What is so alarming about this simple balance that gets greedy bankers who own and control chemical fertilizer manufacturers so riled?

Its cheap. It's easily found, transported and applied to food plant farms. It is far more effective for producing healthy, disease and insect blocking plants than all the synthetic chemicals ever developed and hyped up by all the greedy manufacturers.

Period!

What's not to like about natural?

Depends. Do you value gold and control more than your life and health? Then your natural choice is lethal synthetic chemicals to eat and die with.

Simple, really.


I don't want to lose your attention here. But I do not want to try to reword the clearly detailed material on natural soil nutrition one very well researched soil scientist freely shares, and his published works you should own copies of.

Here . . .

http://www.soilminerals.com/AgricolaI.htm

And . . .

http://www.soilminerals.com/AgricolaII.htm

Next: Go here . . .

http://www.acresusa.com/magazine

It's a surviving publication that Big Chemistry tries to blot off the face of Little Earth! Its history is the surviving story of good, natural nutrition Big Chemistry wants you never to hear.

Do you know that Big Chemistry is also Big Pharma? True. Big Pharma is the same lethal medical poisons industry as those thugs who block any and all natural soil nutrition. Don't think so? Go and do a little research!

The buck; follow it: believe it!


In the foregoing, soil "energy" is referred to. I like this explanation . . .

He was certainly involved in determining the ideal mineral balance in the soil, although he used what’s called the LaMotte method for soil testing, which uses a weaker extracting solution and measures easily available nutrients. But his more important focus and contribution was on the energy balance or imbalance of the soil; the flow of energy in the soil.
As we learned in chapter One from producing our own nutrient-dense soil from a wide variety of raw source material, then here we are actually using it as 100% of the plant bed soil, this energy concept correctly explains the viability of our natural soil. My own research by practice over the 40+ years of using 100% compost as food plant soils has its success completely based on the high energy level it contains right out of production, then over a few years this energy exchange balances out, and the soil produces less and less healthy plants.

The explanation of energy imbalance perfectly describes this root-level exchange of nutrient uptake. The soil we produce has the nutrients the raw material contained,and nothing else. Where a nutrient is too high or deficient, that shows up in the decreasing energy exchange rate in soil used by plants over previous seasons. As the enzymes have decreasing food to metabolize, their energy exchange potential decreases.

It's the same for earth worms, and all other living organisms the soil hosts. So many people who want to have earth worms in their garden soil have trouble understanding those earth worms cannot live without good and plenty supplies of fresh feed! Every other soil organism is the same!

When we observe a sprouting seed, it moves! It's metabolism and relative weight and size to the soil it is sprouting in literally contribute to it moving about as its extending roots and size increase act against it supporting base to shift its body! It literally moves by reason of its healthy growth! In fact, the largest living objects on earth also move! Their growing roots push aside soil particles, and under a concrete sidewalk, those roots raise the heavy concrete! Yes, we have energy entropy in plants!

Plants even have "muscles"! Observe a Venus Fly Trap! That triggering insect landing inside the open petals of this plant cause it's muscles to contract, trapping the hapless prey while digestive chemicals reduce the little nutrient-dense critter to plant food!

Touch and watch a sensitive plant's "muscles" snap its leaves shut! Energy entropy.

This same energy exchange causes digesting food in our gut to transform its energy and the salts we should have in our diet provide pathways for this energy to travel from higher concentration containers to lower ones, and from one polarity to the opposite. In the travel, there is movement of something.

Add water only to a handful of grain in a clear glass. Watch as the reaction between nutrients in the grain causes energy production and that energy passes from higher containers to lower, producing gases and reduction of the grain structure, plus, if the grain sprouts, energy that travels within the growing plant. Yes, it moves! See the roots increasing in length and size?

If you haven't yet, go to the above document about natural soil nutrition and carefully learn the facts about nutrient ratios and balance and interaction with each other and plant roots. I hope that you have watched one season of your natural soil growing plants at this point. That experience helps understand the next part of this topic:


Plant Root Metabolism

One of the more obvious "miracle" I observed about plants grown in our natural soil is the rapid root growth. This rapid and extensive root growth is not seen in heavier, higher mineral ratio soils, and the plants our nutrient-dense soil produces grow far faster, bigger, and more healthy than those raised in high mineral soils.

The water retention of heavier mineral soils is less, too. The course, granular texture of our soil also promotes very easy, almost effortless root growth. Movement that requires more energy in heavier soils than our light, easy nutrient assimilable soil. The roots in our soil also have encouragement to quickly increase their size and reach to nutrients that are primed and ready for quick uptake. I have observed this phenomenon year after year.

This fact alone accounts for the rapid depletion of energy in our natural soil! It's our soil's ready to consume nutrients that cause the plants to grow so rapidly, and full of vibrant energy and disease and feeding insect resistance!

Reading the articles on the outside site indicates a maximum 4% soil organic content for best plant health, yet our results clearly illustrate far higher 75 and higher ration produces much higher plant growth and food yield. But, our soil does not sustain the high plant growth factor. That's a "good" thing!

Why?

The slower reduction of, and availability of nutrients in heavier mineral soils limits plant growth for a given plant and environment factors. Actually unless we have abnormally high costs producing natural soils, this factor of high depletion rate works in our favor, Instead of having heavy, difficult to move soils when ours is depleted, we simply recycle our light, high-energy soil through a fresh compost process that re-energizes it, and add depleted nutrients for a renewed high yield crop! Try that with heavy mineral-dense soils!

It's much the same for recharging a battery. It's energy the battery consumes to recharge; it's nutrients and chemical transformation our soil recharge consumes.

When we started this chapter there was the thought that it would be a second Chapter Two of the first section, focused on gathering the widest and most diverse nutrient content raw materials available. That's true to a point here. But, this chapter carries that concept on to the factual assessment of our soil's nutrient content and balances, and details to some degree what to do to add and decrease and measure our soil nutrient content.

Plants and our body require specific nutrients in specific ratios for optimum health. That's a complex, almost unfathomable equation that is far too involved to be practical for us to resolve with fine detail. In our favor, the natural nutrient content of plants that were even marginally healthy is usually enough for healthy plants grown in their decomposed matter. Also, the process of decomposition chemically shapes the nutrients into forms easily assimilated by plant roots, unlike mineral-dense soils where a complex, long chain of processes must first take place.

Think of the difference to a mother bird that ingests food for its young, then regurgitates partially digested food into its young's eager mouths. Roots can produce enzymes to react with undigested nutrients, to reduce them for assimilation, but that requires two elements we do not want to use to produce our food: energy, and time. Energy required to transform nutrients reduces plant growth by the same amount!~

The time factor is similar. The amount of food our plants produce when growing at maximum rate is much more than those plants waiting on nutrient reduction.

Common sense!


So . . . this chapter takes the concepts of Section One Chapter 2 beyond the raw material to illustrate the hows and whys so our soil has maximized nutrient content, and we know what is required to make it this way.

Since I firmly believe and adhere to "Keep It Simple, Stupid," let's remember that raw material from the sea has close to, if not complete nutrient content and in the right balance. The main nutrient deficiency of sea material is those which plants use the most of, namely nitrogen and potash. Possibly phosphorus. The rest our plants need minimal quantity, and depletion could take years of plant harvesting to deplete. Still, regular soil analysis is good. Not an absolute, but good.

Sites like the one for understanding soil nutrient energy exchange are rare, but exist. A very few library titles are focused on natural soil content, but with diligence can be discovered. Let's hope and pray the Internet remains out of greedy handed banksters determined to utterly wipe out our access to natural nutrient soils and providing our loved ones with health-producing and maintaining natural nutrition information.

Once we cannot maintain our health, what else matters? Banksters understand this far more than we do, and work madly overtime to destroy our health in every possible way they can find.

Do not succumb.

Ever.





Section One: The "Dirt" Part

  • Chapter 1: To Be Decided Later . . .
  • Chapter 2: Raw Material to Produce Nutrient-dense Soil With
  • Chapter 3: Did We Forget To Plan Ahead For Use of Our Soil?
  • Chapter 4: Let's Build It!
  • Chapter 5: Making Certain It "Works"!
  • Chapter 6: Working Pile Maintenance
  • Chapter 7: Harvesting Our New Soil!
  • Chapter 8: Storing and Placing New Soil
  • Chapter 9: Prepping The New & Refurbished Grow Bed
  • Chapter 10: Side Trip: Vermicomposting "Eat Worms"!
  • Chapter 11: Redundance! Too Much Raw Material for Next Build!
  • Chapter 12: Ready? Let's Do This Again!
  • Chapter 13: More Uses for Our Soil!
  • Section One Appendix



Section Two: The "2" Part

·       The "2" Part Introduction
·       Chapter 1: Plants Need the Same Nutrients for Their Health As You!
·       Chapter 2: Let's Begin @ the Start! Planning the Garden You Want
·       Chapter 3: Before Grow Season Plant Propagation; Or Not
·       Chapter 4: Prepping Your New Season Grow Bed(s)
·       Chapter 5: Setting out Early Starts and Seed Planting
·       Chapter 6: Fast Track Healthy Plant Action
·       Chapter 7: Healthy Producing Plants First Need This
·       Chapter 8: Between Planting & Producing Food Plant Care
·       Chapter 9: Betcha Ya Didn't Think About This Mid-Summer!
·       Chapter 10: See Why We Made Careful Plans For Maximum Harvest?
·       Chapter 11: Summer Season End
·       Chapter 12: Fall Harvest
·       Chapter 13: Fall & Winter Planting
·       Chapter 14: Season Wrap & Planning Next Year's Soil & Garden
·       Section Two Appendix


Section Three: The Last Part, er, Cuisine Part

·       Section Three Introduction
·       Chapter One: Why Did We Forget To Do This Part B4 Planting?
·       Chapter Two: Fresh Garden Food Cuisine: Who Can Match?
·       Chapter Three: We Did It! What All This Fresh Food! -Preserving
·       Chapter Four: Sideways Glance; Compare Nutrients In Garden v.s. Store Food
·       Chapter Five: Creating Cuisine Awesome Requires This; Planning
·       Chapter Six: Now! Let's Create Awesome!
·       Chapter Seven: Why Hide Awesome When You Can Do This, Instead?
·       Chapter Eight: Hey! It's Chapter 8!
·       Chapter Nine: This Ain't No Engine # 9!
·       Chapter Ten: Lost References; aka, Old Recipes For Fresh Garden Super Taste!
·       Chapter Eleven: Let's Do This Again! Cuising Roundup Rodeo!
·       Chapter Twelve: Now! Let's Plan Next Year's Cuisine Garden!
·       Section Three Appendix



Interspersed Activities List


Section One: The "Dirt" Part

  • Chapter 1: To Be Decided Later . . .
  1. Taking Stock - Make a notebook with two+ pages for each chapter in this guide. On the first and second page write the name of the chapter activities. Reserve the rest of the space for chapter notes.
  2. Taking Stock: Find or make space(s) to build the compost pile and the finished soil storage area. Note: Be careful to read and follow guides in the chapter! Note 2: At the sight of the compost pile, allow space to put(Stage) raw materials as they arrive so they are ready and close to the pile to save work.
  • Chapter 2: Raw Material to Produce Nutrient-dense Soil With
  1. Gauge how much volume of new soil your growing beds need for one season. Multiply this amount by 4 to see how much raw material is needed.
  2. Let's make an inventory list for the usable raw materials available, where each is located, and if applicable, when available.
  • Chapter 3: Did We Forget To Plan Ahead For Use of Our Soil?
  1. List the plants to be grown in your new soil. Beside each plant name note the soil and environment it best grows in. This can be numbers or letters that are cross referenced to short details for each type of environment and soil. Be sure to make sure the desired plants have their preferred spot available! There's no substitute for 8 hours of full sun!
  2. Determine the type of soil each plant needs and where to obtain the necessary materials.
  • Chapter 4: Let's Build It!
  1. First things, first! If not done already, make sure there is enough of each type of raw material for building each part of the pile. If there is enough first layer material but too little second or third, either wait or place the first layer then wait and collect the next layer material. The build can take all the time necessary to build as material becomes available. However, be sure to follow the "recipe" as it is key for success!
  2. Reread the building guide. Note any differences the pile you are building requires. 
  • Chapter 5: Making Certain It "Works"!
  1. Good Job building! Now, sit back and relax, just a bit. You deserve it! We need the simple temperature gauging tool mentioned in the chapter. Any sturdy metal rod will do. Plastic and fiberglass resist heat so it's best to stick to metal. Remember, the thicker the rod the longer it requires to heat up to the temperature of the pile. Also, the rod will cool the material it touches, so a second placement for thicker rods will be necessary for accurate sense of actual heat.
  2. Two things are "musts" for good decomposing activity: A. The right moisture. B. The right air flow.

    To make the pile wet enough, add water to the pile at about the half-built point, then over the top of the finished pile. Watch the bottom of the pile to tell when the water penetrates the entire pile. We'll call this the "first" watering.

    The second requirement for good success: When the pile is built, cover the top and sides with 1 to 2 inches of sand, sod, or other fine material that will benefit plant health. Do not cover with anything that blocks air or water!
  • Chapter 6: Working Pile Maintenance
  1. After the pile gets hot, in about 5 to 8 days for one with lots of green grass, use the metal temperature gauge rod to check on moisture inside the pile. The heat and air flow are constantly drying the pile. Add small amounts of water and check to be sure it penetrates down to dry spots.
  2. About every three days check the pile heat in several places. The pile with evenly-distributed materials will produce even heat over the whole pile. To increase heat, stand on top and pack it down hard as possible. Once the process is going well, the pile will slowly compress from its own weight. This is the main reason for using small branch material layers that maintain air flow as the pile settles.
  • Chapter 7: Harvesting Our New Soil!
  1. After 12 to 15 days, gauge the internal heat. If it's still well over 100 degrees Fahrenheit, allow several more days time, and check again. At 15 days, and the pile is visibly decomposed, dig into a spot for a foot or so to check the material, Black or very dark brown from original green marks complete process. For original "brown" material, black or dark brown AND very water-saturated appearance is a good sign. If the pile dried some, there may be a coating of white fungus. This is a beneficial life form that helps reduce plant material to its nutrient level.
  2. At about 100 degrees F, and the material is visibly soft, dark brown, and well composted, it's ready to filter out the branch material and larger particles that need more breakdown. However, this larger material is fine for filling planting holes for trees. It is well into the decomposing and tree roots love decaying woody material.

    For vegetable beds and plant pots, rake, fork or screen out these larger pieces. Have a spot to shelter or cover the finished soil, if it is to wait before filling grow beds and pots. Rain leaches nutrients out.
  • Chapter 8: Storing and Placing New Soil
  1. Let's step back a minute to take stock of what we've accomplished to this point.

    On your Notes' Worksheet for this chapter list major highlights of your great progress! At this stage you deserve a big pat on the back! Congratulations!

    Now, what's to do with that beautiful pile of nutrient-dense soil you just made? Think of all the possibilities! Matter of fact, Brainstorm a bit and go over your garden plans. Go to YouTube and other video venues to look for and observe new ideas!
  2. Take awhile to dig into possibilities? Always good to be open to change!

    With firmer goals for how to use this great stuff, go do it! First, though, a plan and map might help?
  • Chapter 9: Prepping The New & Refurbished Grow Bed
  1. I hope you decided on something new to add or change up your garden! In any case, now the plan, and map? are in hand, let's go out and get started. For former grow beds, the soil needs turning. Likely earth worms in it are starving, so let's feed them first. As you turn the soil, lift every other fork(or shovel) out and place kitchen wastes, lawn clippings, old half rotted leaves and yard wastes, and, yes! corrugated cardboard(Torn to small pieces) near the bottom of the bed. Water thoroughly.

    Do the same for a new bed - first adding a layer of worm feed at the bottom. The More the better, if it's fairly course. Finer particle feed needs mixing with the bottom layer of new soil so it keeps from matting into a smelly mass.

    The soil should be level with the top of an 8" side grow bed. It settles during the season. Especially so for root crops.
  2. Believe, or don't, your new soil is going to run short of nitrogen quick! Most nitrogen in the new pile was used for decomposition. Get urea, if available. It's the most nitrogen for the buck at 46% available nitrogen. Just add it to the side of new plants or seedlings. For seed planting, wait to add nitrogen till the second to 6th week after germination, then side dress along the side, or between rows. It's really amazing to watch those plants leap up!

    During the 6th to 8th week, again side dress nitrogen. Cover it with an inch of soil and water in well. Careful! The tender roots die in direct contact to urea!
  • Chapter 10: Side Trip: Vermicomposting "Eat Worms"!
  1. OK, OK! Don't Eat worms! This activity begins with searching on YouTube, or getting books at the library, or Amazon, about vermicomposting. There's even a website named "vermicomposting"!

    The things you learn will amaze you! Actually, the feeding, care and working earth worms for soil production is easy. Like all livestock these little critters need habitat, feed, water and nutrition to remain healthy. Yes, they can get diseases and die rapidly, but not if we do common sense care.

    Make notes from what you learn, and see if vermicomposting in any part of the garden will work.
  2. Ready to start worm farming? Great! Grab a piece of paper and pencil. Go out and scope out the available garden space that seems suitable. Read this chapter for the specific requirements. Have them?

    Decide how much feed you have available every week of the year. The size of worm bin is determined by this amount. Find a ready source of any earth worm available. Red Wrigglers are popular, but not necessary. Find a farm with a muddy barnyard and you've got manure worms, a hardy species that loves rotting stuff!

    Tear up enough corrugated cardboard to make a three to five inch covering on the bottom of the bin, followed by fine sand for digestion grit, then a layer of earthy soil mixed with the feed you have on hand. Water until sopping wet. The porous base of the bin allows excess water to drain. Spread the worms over the surface. Add a layer of feed then sprinkle with fine sand, then a layer of cardboard, then just soil about an inch thick to prevent drying.

    After four days, use a fork to dig into the bin and turn a forkful over. There should be a lot of happy, wriggling worms! If not, but all looks  good, just wait a week and repeat. If not by then, look for dry matter, feed too rotted and clumped, or worms migrated to another part. The bottom layer of cardboard allows water through, but the worms will not wiggle out before they feast on all that delicious cardboard!
  • Chapter 11: Redundance! Too Much Raw Material for Next Build!
  1. Often I find that people I request to bring their kitchen wastes, yard debris and all the raw material I have from the garden amounts to quite a bit more than there is room for the pile! Not to worry! Just build the next pile to the size it should be, and left overs can wait for the next build. Just add a bit less to the staging area, or if it's near season's end, take it all, and there's enough for an additional Fall pile build.
  2. During Winter, find and bring "brown" material to the staging area, Half rotted is great! In the late Winter, up to very early Spring, make your first build of the new year. Be ready for another pile as people and you generate Spring cleaning material. Make a list of suppliers and some idea of quantity expected from each. It's better to say "No" before they arrive with too much!
  • Chapter 12: Ready? Let's Do This Again!
  1. This is a bit redundant! I include this chapter to point out that producing good soil is a continual activity limited only by the time you give to it. Doing it for several years, or cycles, gives you a handle on making it work best for how you need it to fit with you gardening. I do caution, however, go slowly! It's easy to burn out doing too much too soon! The lifting and moving is WORK! It's time consuming, too. Enjoy it rather than endure it!
  2. Let's take a break here. Grab that notepad and go over the entire cycle. Update notes and make new ones that tailor this activity to your own gardening.

    You may find it helpful here to peek into the next section. it is focused on the plants. This soil production is all about that, so be smart and peek!

    Make notes, too!
  • Chapter 13: More Uses for Our Soil!
  1. Yup, yup. There's many uses for this soil! Sell it! Fill pots. share with the neighbor! Donate it, and then your new skill set to a community garden. Go to a local garden group and teach them! Make their soil!
  2. This activity is searching for ways to use your soil. Since we covered vermicomposting too, search ways to use that soil. Learn how to add it to the soil you produce, too. Then go share all this with the neighbor!
  • Section One Appendix



Section Two: The "2" Part

·       The "2" Part Introduction
·       Chapter 1: Plants Need the Same Nutrients for Their Health As You!
·       Chapter 2: Let's Begin @ the Start! Planning the Garden You Want
·       Chapter 3: Before Grow Season Plant Propagation; Or Not
·       Chapter 4: Prepping Your New Season Grow Bed(s)
·       Chapter 5: Setting out Early Starts and Seed Planting
·       Chapter 6: Fast Track Healthy Plant Action
·       Chapter 7: Healthy Producing Plants First Need This
·       Chapter 8: Between Planting & Producing Food Plant Care
·       Chapter 9: Betcha Ya Didn't Think About This Mid-Summer!
·       Chapter 10: See Why We Made Careful Plans For Maximum Harvest?
·       Chapter 11: Summer Season End
·       Chapter 12: Fall Harvest
·       Chapter 13: Fall & Winter Planting
·       Chapter 14: Season Wrap & Planning Next Year's Soil & Garden
·       Section Two Appendix


Section Three: The Last Part, er, Cuisine Part

·       Section Three Introduction
·       Chapter One: Why Did We Forget To Do This Part B4 Planting?
·       Chapter Two: Fresh Garden Food Cuisine: Who Can Match?
·       Chapter Three: We Did It! What All This Fresh Food! -Preserving
·       Chapter Four: Sideways Glance; Compare Nutrients In Garden v.s. Store Food
·       Chapter Five: Creating Cuisine Awesome Requires This; Planning
·       Chapter Six: Now! Let's Create Awesome!
·       Chapter Seven: Why Hide Awesome When You Can Do This, Instead?
·       Chapter Eight: Hey! It's Chapter 8!
·       Chapter Nine: This Ain't No Engine # 9!
·       Chapter Ten: Lost References; aka, Old Recipes For Fresh Garden Super Taste!
·       Chapter Eleven: Let's Do This Again! Cuising Roundup Rodeo!
·       Chapter Twelve: Now! Let's Plan Next Year's Cuisine Garden!
·       Section Three Appendix

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